One second in the muzzle is not enough time to buckle the straps, or do virtually anything with the muzzle on. We need to extend the time to about 5 seconds to be able to get the muzzle on. In order to do this we will need to build up time.
To build time you start with fractions of a second. Give the cue word but delay just a moment before doling out the reward. At first, vary the time. Do 1 delayed reward, 2 immediate rewards, 2 delayed rewards, etc.
On the next session, start with an immediate reward 2-3 times, and then go back to delaying for a split second. This time ask for a delay 5 times, give an immediate reward the 6th time, and then delay 5 more times.
The next day you can delay by a full second, and keep building little by little until your dog can hold their nose in the muzzle for about 5 seconds. 5 seconds should be more than enough time to buckle the muzzle on and adjust the straps.
Add Movement, Back off Time
We are now going to make muzzle training a little bit harder. When ever we make one condition harder, it’s best to make other aspects easier. Ask your dog to put their nose in the muzzle for just a second, and move your hand a small amount at the same time.
If they jerk their head out at the first movement, try a smaller movement. Reward your dog if they can handle even the smallest movement of your hand while keeping their nose in the muzzle. Repeat a small movement 10-15 times.
On your next session, start out with this small movement, but then gradually build up to slightly larger movements. Keep building up until your dog will allow you to move a hand freely while holding their nose in the muzzle.
Touching the Straps
Once your dog is comfortable with your hands moving around, try holding the muzzle by the straps, and see if they’re still willing to put their face in the muzzle. It may be good to go back to sticky treats in the bottom of the muzzle for this phase.
Your dog may feel uncomfortable with the new hand position, or they may be perfectly glad to eat the treats. You’ll have to watch your dog’s reaction to see which way is most comfortable for them.
Keep repeating this phase at least 3 times, or until you see your dog is completely comfortable shoving past your hands to get those muzzle snacks.
Touching Straps to Head
When conditioning Tank to the muzzle, this step ended up being the hardest part for him. He was fine putting his head in the muzzle on cue, holding it there, and even hands moving around his head. The second a strap touched the side of his neck though, he was out of there!
To get him used to the straps touching his head, I would feed a sticky treat on the bottom and then just touch the strap. When he no longer flinched, pulled back, or reacted in any way to this I would grasp the strap briefly. When he no longer reacted to this I lightly brushed it against his neck.
I repeated this on both sides until he was fine with the strap touching first one side, and then the other side.
Finally, I began holding the straps shut briefly, rewarding with a treat each time until he was comfortable feeling the straps each time.
Buckling sound
The final step was getting the dog used to the click of the buckle. Most dogs who wear flat buckles or harnesses are used to this sound, but if your dog isn’t used to clicking buckles, you’ll want to desensitize that sound.
Without putting it on the dog, simply buckle the muzzle, give the dog a treat, and repeat over and over until the dog associates the sound with a treat.
Putting it all Together
If you’ve done your work right, the first wearing of the muzzle should be a non-event. Warm your dog by asking them to hold their nose in the muzzle a few times, then by playing with the strap a few times, and then by holding it shut a few times. Reward lavishly each time.
When they’re thoroughly on board, buckle the muzzle on, feed a treat through the muzzle, and then unbuckle it.
The first time, just put it on long enough to feed the treat, and do it only once. End the session with a licky treat in the muzzle without putting it on.
Repeat this session for a full week.
You’re done! All that’s left is adding time in the muzzle. By shaping muzzle training slowly in this way, your dog has learned to be very comfortable in the muzzle, and well used to wearing it. Should they ever need a muzzle for veterinary or grooming appointments, the muzzle will not be associated with the problem.
Your job from here is to make sure that you don’t use the muzzle only for unpleasant things. As long as they mostly associate the muzzle with fun groom training sessions (or in the case of compulsive eaters, going for walks) they won’t associate muzzles only with bad or scary things.
Similar Posts:
- Groom Training: Muzzles, part 2
- How To Muzzle Train A Chihuahua
- Groom Training: The Muzzle
- Desensitization to Scissors: Introduction
- Desensitizing a Dog to Ear Care, Part 2
