Remember step one? We’re now going to turn the muzzle into a pup cup! Spray a little Kong Stuffer, Spray Cheese, or whipped cream, or any other sticky treat your pup likes in the bottom of the muzzle. The goal is for them to reach into the muzzle to get the treat.
All this session consists of is licking the treat out and then done. Do this several times, for at least a full week of sessions, even if your dog is very comfortable with reaching in. This is the foundation of the next few steps so it’s very important.
Watch for things like your dog stretching out like the world’s longest noodle while getting the treat, flinching out of it at the slightest disturbance, or being unsure about eating it in the first place.
If they are too nervous to reach all the way in (which they shouldn’t be from practicing with the cup) you can try putting the treat toward the front of the muzzle at first, and gradually working it back toward the bottom of it.
Your dog should be very relaxed and comfortable reaching in to get the treats by the time you move to the next step.
Step Six: Move the muzzle
Now that your dog is comfortable diving in for the treat, we’re going to start very slowly moving the muzzle around. This could be a slow crawl three inches sideways or away from the dog, never toward the dog at this time.
The goal is to see whether the dog immediately withdraws their head when the muzzle moves, or if they slowly pursue the treats. You want your dog willing to follow the treats even when the muzzle moves.
This is a very important stage because many dogs, when faced like things with booties or clothing, refuse to move. We want the dog to know that it’s possible to move while this funny thing is near their face.
This also allows the muzzle to touch the sides of their face as the muzzle moves a little bit, so they can experience the touch of it while moving it around.
Keep practicing moving the muzzle slowly in various directions (never back to ward the dog, but up, down and side to side) for several sessions, over at least a week, before moving on.
Signs your dog is ready to move on: They are focused purely on consuming delicious snack, and follow the muzzle around without a care in the world. If your pup pulls back, hesitates, or acts suspicious of the movement they are not ready to move on.
Step Seven: Moving Your Hands
When it comes down to grooming, hands are suspicious to dogs. A brush lying on the floor doesn’t do anything to them. A brush in someone’s hands pulls on tangles and hurts! A muzzle is no different.
You will eventually have to move your hands to buckle the straps, and you’re going to want your pup to be fine with this. Try moving one of your hands while doing the muzzle training. Just pull your hand off one side slightly.
Does your dog pull back a little bit to look at what you’re doing? That’s a sign they’re suspicious of hand related movements. Take this part slow and practice moving one hand slightly during each session, until your dog ignores it.
Once your dog is confident with small motions, try bigger ones. Try holding the muzzle by the straps as if you were about to buckle it on while they eat out of the muzzle. Try moving your hands around their head. If they pull out of the muzzle, stop eating briefly, or do anything but completely ignore your hands while you’re working with them, stay at that step or take a step back until they’re comfortable.
Add Cue Word
Putting food in the muzzle provides your dog a wealth of different experiences. It teaches them to put their nose in the muzzle, that they can move while there is something covering their nose, and that the muzzle is a very good thing.
As great as this is however, your dog will eventually have to wear the muzzle without a constant supply of food. You’re going to be working with the pup for lots of other things, and you want the muzzle to be an afterthought, a mere accessory that they wear sometimes like a collar or leash.
Because of this, we’re going to put a cue word on at this point, and then start fading the treats from there.
Your cue word can be what every you want. I usually say, “Muzzle up!” and offer the muzzle. At first, leave everything as normal and let your dog eat their usual sticky treat out of the bottom. Just pair the word with offering them the muzzle to lick.
Do this several times, until you think they’ve connected the word with the muzzle. Then say “Muzzle up!” and offer the muzzle with no treats. Click and reward, or praise and reward, after the dog has put their nose in the muzzle, even if only for a second.
At first, do this once, then add a small amount of lickable treat, give the cue, and offer it for them to lick. Switch between the two at random.
At each session, gradually add more ‘empty’ times with the muzzle until they are putting their nose in each time in anticipation of getting a treat after the muzzle has been put on.
When your dog will willingly put their nose in when they hear your cue, even for a moment, you can move on to the next step. We’ll talk about that next week.
Similar Posts:
- Groom Training: The Muzzle
- How To Muzzle Train A Chihuahua
- Introducing the Groom Lead
- How to Desensitize the Sound of a Dryer
- How to desensitize your dog to mouth handling
