Last week we talked about why dogs pull on the leash, and how to remove the motivator that causes them to pull so much. In this section, we’ll work on giving them an alternative to pulling mightily on the leash. We will call it a heel, but if you’re going into competitive obedience, please note this isn’t as refined as a formal heel.
We will instead be teaching them to keep level with your leg when asked to. To do this, use a treat to lure your dog level with your leg (which ever side you prefer they walk on) click your clicker when they are beside your leg, and reward. Take a step forward, lure them to the same position with a treat, and reward.
This should be done inside your house, off leash, at a boring time. Trying to train this while on a walk will likely impede learning because your pet will be too distracted to focus on the new behavior.
Practice luring your dog into the position you want 10-15 times before ending the session, and repeat the session every day for at least a week. if your dog is short and you are tall, I find a heeling stick helpful for this. I stick a hotdog slice on the end of a super long chopstick and use this as an extension of my arm to help guide the dog. It saves a lot of bending over.
Toward the end of the week, try making it a little bit harder for him to get into position. Try turning a little when you take a step, or taking a larger step, or even two steps. By challenging the behavior in small ways you can help them build up their understanding of what you are asking for.
When your dog is promptly moving alongside you to get in the correct position even if you turn a little or take a couple of steps, try moving to a new position and pausing instead of luring. If your pet gets into the new position, even if it takes them a moment, immediately reward them.
If your dog can move to the new position without a lure, practice taking just one step and not luring 10-15 times, rewarding only the times they move into position. If they can’t, that’s okay too. You can try fading the lure by using your hand with no treat at first, and then trying again with no lure at all.
Adding the Cue
Once your pup is good at getting into your desired position without a lure, you can name the command. To do this, simply say “Heel” (or what ever cue you want) when you know your dog is about to perform the behavior. Repeat this every single time.
If they for some reason do not obey the command, do not reward them. Go back to an easier step where they will listen if they ignore you two times in a row.
Adding Distance
Your pup should now be able to take at least two steps at a time with you during practice, now we’re going to add a little more distance. Try taking 3 steps between rewards for a session, and then offer a variable reward.
A variable reward means there should be no set pattern on when you reward. Give them a reward for keeping level with you on the first step. Then take 5 steps. Then take 2 steps. Then 3 steps. Then 7 steps.
Variable rewards are a bit like slot machines to your dog, and it can be very fun for them. They never know when you will give them their reward.
Applying this to Walks
Walks are a very exciting time. It’s likely that the second the harness and leash are snapped onto your dog all thoughts of training are out the window. On top of being extremely exciting, dogs don’t generalize. Working with you off leash isn’t the same as working with you on leash.
That being said, bring your clicker and treats on a walk. If they happen to walk at your side even once, click and treat. When you get home before you take the leash and harness off, try spending a few minutes working on heel in the house with the leash and collar on.
When your pup is good at practicing a few steps of heel in their leash and harness after a walk, try doing it as a requirement for leaving for the walk.
Always remember to dial back requirements when ever you do something new. If your dog can do 7 steps of heel in the house, try just one step with the leash and harness on. See our post on the three D’s of dog training to get a better understanding of why.
How Long Is Long Enough?
A formal heel isn’t something your dog should do for long periods of time. If your dog can stay in a heel for 10-20 steps, that’s good enough for the needs of a groomer at a groom shop, for passing another dog on a hike, for getting past that one house with the fence fighting dogs.
When Refusing to Walk is a Protest
Earlier, we mentioned that dogs often dig in their heels at the groom shop as a form of protest. Teaching them heel may work to help them pull less when things are exciting, but will it also work to tame their protests as well?
Asking your pet to heel when they dig in at the groom shop may cause them to walk on, but it’s also best to take a good hard look at why they are digging in. Are they stopping because they are tired? Because something hurts and they don’t want to walk anymore? Because they don’t want to be groomed and they’re issuing a non-aggressive protest?
Refusal to walk should be looked at as a form of communication. It’s good to at least try to understand the why behind it. Your dog still needs to be groomed, but sometimes the problem is something pretty easily fixed–like arthritis medicine before the groom, or hearing protection during the blow dryer.
Grooming protests are likely to be resolved by this course if it involves fear. Most of the things dogs don’t like about being groomed are addressed here. If your dog is tired on a walk, picking them up might be the desired response from your dog–and it’s harmless to comply. If they are hurting, addressing the issue could help.
Sometimes, the answer is indeed getting scooped up, but when we respect our dogs thoughts even a tiny bit, they tend to be more reasonable about the times your answer is no.
Similar Posts:
- How to Teach Your Chihuahua to Heel
- How To Fade The Lure
- What is Luring in Dog Training?
- Introducing the Groom Lead
- How to Introduce the Leash
