If you own a short haired chihuahua, it’s unlikely you will need this section. While some groomers do scissor excess paw pad hair instead of using clippers, it’s very unlikely. Indeed, most dogs that never get any kind of trimming (except paw pad hair of course) can skip this section.
This section is mainly for long-haired chihuahuas, and especially for chihuahuas who may have a little bit of something else mixed in that causes them to have long hair on their face.
Shaping a dog’s head is usually done with scissors. Even when a dog is getting the most minimal level of scissoring, they will get the corners of the eyes trimmed. If they have never been conditioned to expect this, it can be very dangerous.
Imagine a dog flailing and screaming because someone is doing something strange close to their eye. Now imagine being the groomer trying to use blades really close to your dog’s vulnerable eyes while they’re thrashing.
This isn’t a position anyone wants to be in, but it’s easily fixed. You can help get your dog to be calm around scissors, so they aren’t afraid even when scissoring is happening close to their delicate eyes and ears.
For Bearded Dogs Only
If your dog has hair on their chin long enough to be held, the groomer will hold this hair while working on the face. This helps stabilize the head so no accidental injury occurs, and by gently moving the hair this way and that, the groomer can tell the dog where to move their head to make things easier.
Dogs who don’t know how to yield to pressure pull against this hold. This constant tugging not only makes for a bobble head that is hard to safely scissor, it probably does not feel good to the dog.
You can help your pet learn how to hold their head for grooming by practicing this at home.
Your dog should be well used to you handling their mouth because of our muzzle desensitization section. If your dog hasn’t gone through all the stages, come back to this one later. They should be comfortable with having you reach out and touch their face, so there’s no need for an intro to face touching.
Step one therefore, is to grasp the hair under the chin for just a moment, treat at the same time as holding the beard, and then let go. Repeat this 10-15 times for the first session. If your dog pulls back, it is fine to let go but do not reward. If they pull back more than 3 times without you having a chance to reward them, simply reward a reach instead and build up to a hold.
When your dog eagerly anticipates you holding their beard for a treat, add time. Hold the beard and then give the treat a split second later. Build up gradually, over several sessions, until you can hold the beard for 2-3 seconds.
Finally, using a treat, hold the beard, and guide the dog’s face to one side with both the beard and the treat. This helps the dog learn that they should move their head when their beard is moved.
For everyone else: Introducing the scissors
Remember, it’s not necessary for these to be grooming sheers to get your pup desensitized to them. Anything that makes a snippy snip sound will do, including regular old paper scissors. In a future post we will be desensitizing around the eyes, and for that you don’t even need scissors—an unsharpened pencil will do and may be safer.
Like with every other item we’ve used, it’s time to put the scissors on the floor, hands free, and let your dog investigate it. This should be fairly routine for your dog by now. It clues your dog in that the item you will be working with is scissors, its going to involve them, and there is going to be treats. How exciting!
Reward your pup for inspecting the scissors 2-3 times. Then put your hand on the scissors, and treat your pet at the same time as you touch the scissors. Do this 10-15 times.
Although by now this should be routine, and your pup will ideally hardly glance at the hand on the scissor before zeroing in on treats, it’s good to assess their body language. If they retreat at all from the scissors, you’ll need to spend more time here until they’re eager, relaxed, and comfortable.
Remember that grooming can be traumatizing to your dog if they’ve had a bad experience. You will be told if your pet was nicked by a pair of scissors, but probably not if they were pulling, shaking, or expressing fear at the scissors.
Unless your groomer knows you are trying to train your dog to do better at the groom shop, you’re unlikely to get a full breakdown of their behavior during any particular groom session.
If your pup hangs back, it’s a sign that they’re not thrilled at the sight of scissors. Pushing them won’t change their feelings, which is why it’s so important to read their body language every time. Consider these preliminary steps a conversation. “How do we feel about this part of grooming?” and look to see what their answer is.
When your pup is 100% happy with you touching the scissors on the ground, pick them up. Treat your pet while you hold the scissors, and then set them down again. Repeat this 10-15 times. If your pet seems happy to have you hold the scissors, you can move on to desensitizing your dog to the feel and sound of scissors near them.
Similar Posts:
- Introducing the Groom Lead
- Blow Dryer Desensitization: Wind
- Introduction to Tail Desensitization
- Introduction to Ear Desensitization
- How to Desensitize Touching Near Your Dog’s Eyes
